Cobblestones and Lace Shawl

Cobblestones and Lace Shawl

This triangular shawl is knitted from corner to corner and has a garter stitch lace edging that is knitted on at the same time.

You can get this pattern as a PDF file here: Shawl – Cobblestones and Lace Shawl condensed version,
Or you can get the “linear” version as a PDF file here:  Shawl – Cobblestones and Lace shawl

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (Medium:4) 10 oz/283 g, 482 yds/440 m
US size 8 (5.0 mm) circular needle 32-inch (80 cm) or 40-inch (102 cm)
1 stitch marker.

Abbreviations:
P# = place marker
# = marker

Garter Stitch Lace Edging:
On the lace edging, the stitch count for the right sided rows varies from row to row. The stitches are counted from the marker between the body of the shawl and the edging, with the number of stitches for that lace row given in parentheses at the end.

Row 1(RSR): k2, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k3tog, (k1, yo) twice, k2tog, yo, k2. (18)
Row 2: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 3: k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (19)
Row 4: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 5: k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (20)
Row 6: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 7: k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (21)
Row 8: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 9: k2, yo, k2tog, k8, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (20)
Row 10: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 11: k11, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (19)
Row 12: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 13: k2, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (18)
Row 14: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 15: k7, kfb, B#, k9, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (17)
Row 16: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.

Beginning the Shawl:
Cast on 21 stitches and knit 5 rows.

Foundation Pattern:
The foundation pattern combines the starting body pattern and the lace edging pattern written together row by row. Place a marker (#) between the body and the edging. Work Foundation Pattern one time, ending with Row 16. The numbers in parentheses are the number of edging stitches only as counted from the marker to the end of the row.

Row 1 (RSR): k3, kfb, P#, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k3tog, (k1, yo) twice, k2tog, yo, k2. (18)
Row 2: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k4.
Row 3: k4, kfb, #, k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (19)
Row 4: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k1, p1, k3.
Row 5: k5, kfb, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (20)
Row 6: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 7: k6, kfb, #, k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (21)
Row 8: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 9: k7, kfb, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k8, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (20)
Row 10: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 11: k8, kfb, #, k11, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (19)
Row 12: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 13: k9, kfb, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (18)
Row 14: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 15: k10, kfb, #, k9, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (17)
Row 16: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.

Total stitches at the end of this section:  29

Body Increase Pattern stitch:
The Body Increase Pattern stitch is worked 4 times per repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern.

Row 1(RSR): knit until 1 st before marker, kfb.
Row 2: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k3.
Row 3: knit until 1 st before marker, kfb.
Row 4: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 stitches remain, p1, k3.

Work a total of 10 repeats of the Garter Stitch Lace pattern for this section. Your total stitch count will increase 8 stitches for each repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern. (Total stitches after each repeat:  37, 45, 53, 61, 69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109.)

Body Center Pattern:
The Body Center Pattern is worked 4 times per repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern.

Row 1: knit until 1 st before marker, kfb.
Row 2: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k3.
Row 3: knit until 1 st before marker, ssk.
Row 4: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.

Work 1 repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern for this section. Total stitch count at the end of this section: 109

Body Decrease Pattern:
The Body Decrease Pattern stitch is worked 4 times per repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern.

Row 1:(RSR) knit until 2 sts before marker, ssk.
Row 2: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 3: knit until 2 sts before marker, ssk.
Row 4: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.

Work a total of 10 repeats of the Garter Stitch Lace pattern for this section. Your total stitch count will decrease 8 stitches for each repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern. (Total stitches after each repeat:  101, 93, 85, 77, 69, 61, 53, 45, 37, 29.)

Ending Pattern:
The ending pattern combines the body pattern and the lace edging pattern together written row by row. Work 1 repeat.

Row 1: k10, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k3tog, (k1, yo) twice, k2tog, yo, k2.(B18)
Row 2: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 3: k9, ssk, #, k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (B19)
Row 4: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 5: k8, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (B20)
Row 6: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 7: k7, ssk, #, k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (B21)
Row 8: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 9: k6, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k8, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B20)
Row 10: yo, k2tog, knit to #, (p1, k1) x2, k3.
Row 11: k5, ssk, #, k11, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B19)
Row 12: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k1, p1, k3.
Row 13: k4, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B18)
Row 14: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k4.
Row 15: k3, ssk, #, k9, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B17)
Row 16: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k3. (21 stitches total)

Knit 5 rows and bind off. Weave in ends. Enjoy.

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Malguri Morning

2017_10_20-02Malguri Morning

This triangular garter-stitch shawl is simple and quick, yet thick and warm, just right for those mountain morning breakfasts on the terrace. It has a 2-stitch stockinette edging that is intended to roll, making a nice border.  It is named for Ilisidi’s mountain fortress, “Malguri,” from the C. J. Cherryh Foreigner books (recommended reading!).

Materials:
8 skeins of Loops and Threads Charisma, bulky:5, 3.5 oz./100 g, 109 yd./100 m, Color: Mulberry Bush
US size 10 (6.0 mm) 29-inch and 45-inch circular knitting needles.

Cast on 3 stitches.
Row 1: kfb, k1, kfb (5 stitches)
Row 2: P2, k1, p2
Row 3: k1 kfb, k1, kfb, k1 (7 stitches)
Row 4: P2, k3, p2
Row 5: k1, kfb, knit until 3 stitches left on row, kfb, k2
Row 6: P2, knit until 2 stitches left on needle, p2.
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until shawl has reached the desired dimensions (or until all the yarn you have left is a ball about the size of an orange) .

Finishing: After an even numbered row, knit 1 row, bind off in this manner: *P2tog, slip stitch just worked back onto left needle, p2tog, repeat from * to end of the row. Weave in ends.  Enjoy!

Made with Loops & Threads Charisma Yarn, colors Northern Light (variegated), and Electric Blue (solid).

Cobblestone Pie Shawl with Garter Stitch Edging

2016_10_26-03Cobblestone Pie Shawl with Garter Stitch Edging

This pattern takes about 3-4 skeins of knitting worsted weight (Medium:4) yarn on a size US 8 (5.0 mm) or 9 (5.5 mm).  You can go with Fine or even Fingering weight yarn on either a large or small needle if you want light and lacy.  If you want thick and warm, go with a heavier weight (Bulky:5 yarn) on a larger (US 10 or 13 — 6.0 mm or 9.0 mm) needle.  You will have to do a gauge swatch with yarn of the same weight to calculate how much yarn to buy.  To calculate the area of a triangle, see here:2016_10_26-04

Cast on 3 stitches
Row 1: K1, kfb, k1
Row 2: Knit. (4 stitches)
Row 3: K1, k2fb, k1
Row 4: Knit (6 stitches)
Row 5: K3, yo, k3
Row 6: Knit (7 stitches)
Row 7: k3, yo, k1, yo, k3
Row 8: Knit (9 stitches)
Row 9: K3, p1, k1, p1, k3
Row 10: K3, yo, knit until 3 stitches left on the row, yo, k3
Row 11: K3, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 stitches left on row, p1, k3
Repeat rows 10 and 11 until piece is the size you want.
Row 12: K3, yo,*k1, yo, repeat from * until 3 stitches left on row, k3.
Row 13: K3, drop yo, *k1, drop yo, repeat from * until 3 stitches left on row, k3.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: Knit.
Bind off, weave in ends.

Cobblestone Pie Triangular Shawl

IMG_0003 IMG_0005Cobblestone Pie Shawl

Materials: 3 skeins of knitting worsted, size US10(6.0 mm) 36-inch circular needle.

Cast on 3 stitches.
Row 1: kfb, k1, kfb (5)
Row 2: P2, k1, p2
Row 3: k1 k2fb, k2 (7)
Row 4: P2, k1, p1, k1, p2
Row 5: k1, kfb, knit until 3 stitches left on row, kfb, k2
Row 6: P2, *(k1, p1) repeat from * until 3 stitches left on needle, k1, p2.

Repeat rows 5 and 6 until shawl has reached the desired dimensions.

Finishing: Knit a row, purl a row, Knit a row,
Bind off in this manner: *P2tog, slip stitch just worked back onto left needle, p2tog, repeat from * to end of the row.

Note:  The 2-stitch stockinette edging on either side , as well as the top border of stockinette are going to curl/roll because unblocked stockinette will do that.  This is intentional, and creates a nice rolled edge.

Your Common or Garden-Variety Prayer Shawl

Your Common or Garden-Variety Prayer Shawl

This is a dead easy triangular shawl in garter stitch for an absolute beginner.  All you need to know to do this project is casting on, knit, yarn over, and binding off.  That’s it.  It’s also a great stashbuster project.

Note:  Skinny yarn on big needles makes a delicate and lacy shawl; skinny yarn on small needles makes a thin, lightweight shawl that takes a long time to finish; fat yarn on big needles makes a thick, heavy shawl that is quick to knit; worsted weight yarn on medium size needles makes a medium weight shawl. You can use odds and ends of leftover yarn that are similar in weight to make a colorful striped shawl.

Materials:  Any kind of yarn(s) you want to use in any color(s) you like.

Needles:  A circular knitting needle at least 29 inches long in any needle size you like.

Cast on 2 stitches.

Row 1:  K1, yo, knit to the end of the row.

Repeat row 1 until the shawl is the size you want it.  Bind off.

 

 

Linus Scarf/Shawl

Exif_JPEG_PICTURE

Linus Scarf/Shaw

This is a lovely asymmetrical scarf/shawl pattern by Annett Cordes that I got from my blog-friend The Innocent Abroad. I’ve borrowed Annett’s picture of it, too, for the time being.  The pattern is a free download, but I’ve made it a little easier for American knitters to understand, and put that version here.  What a great stashbuster project.

Cast on 5 stitches.
Row 1:  K4, kfb
Row 2:  K2, yo, knit until 2 stitches left. K2tog tbl.
Row 3:  Knit until 1 stitch left kfb.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the piece has reached the desired length. Bind off.

Trinity Shawl

IMG_0007Trinity Shawl

I called this shawl “Trinity” because it has three main, wedge-shaped sections and a three-stitch border along the long edge.  It is a semicircular garter tab shawl that is a great project for beginning knitters because, apart from the tricky garter tab bit, it uses only two stitches: the knit (K) stitch and the yarn over (yo) stitch.  It is a great stash-buster project.  You can use any size needle and any size thread, but if you are buying yarn expressly to make this project, you will need anywhere from 6 to 9 skeins of yarn depending on the size shawl you want to make, the size of your needles and the thickness of your yarn (the smaller the needles and the finer the yarn, the more yarn you will need to buy).  Estimate generously and buy at least one skein more than you think you’re going to need.  Better to have more yarn than you need, because dye lots.  Fringe is nice.

Following the picture of what the edging looks like are two variations on the pattern for knitters who know how to purl.

Note:  The shawl has a yarn over between the border strip and the main body on each side (2 stitches), and a yarn over in between each end section and the middle section (2 stitches) for a total increase of 4 stitches every other row.  Since the number of stitches in the border strip remains constant, that “extra” increase ends up in the middle section, i.e., for every stitch the two end sections increase, the middle section increases two stitches and the center section ends up being way larger than the two end sections.  This is supposed to happen — the part that goes across your back needs to be way wider than the two parts that fall in front of your shoulders, after all.

Materials:
Yarn: 6 to 9 skeins, or the equivalent amount of odds and ends from your yarn stash.
Needles: At least two sets of double-pointed circular needles (a 36-inch long set and a 48-inch long set) all the same size. (Three sets is better: a 24-inch, a 36-inch, and a 48 inch, again, all the same size.)
Notions: 4 stitch markers.

Abbreviations:
K = knit
yo = yarn over. (Bring the working yarn forward between the needles to the front of the work. Lay it over the top of the right needle. Work the next stitch. This creates a little bar of yarn. On the next row, work this little bar of yarn as though it is a stitch (unless the pattern says not to).
# = marker. When you come to a marker, take the marker off the left needle and put it on the right needle, and do what the pattern says to do next. Note: on the even numbered rows, when you come to a marker, pass it from the left needle to the right needle and continue knitting.

Pick up stitch = This is a way to add to the number of stitches on your needle (increase).  Slip your right needle underneath a strand of yarn and knit it like it was a stitch.  This makes a new stitch.

IMG_0009

Pick up 9 stitches down the side of the work

IMG_0017

Pick up 3 stitches down the bottom edge of the work

IMG_0018

3 original stitches + 9 stitches along the side + 3 stitches along the bottom edge = 15 stitches

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Garter Tab:
1. Cast on 3 stitches.
2. Knit 9 rows.
3. Pick up 9 stitches evenly spaced down the side of the work.
4. Pick up 3 stitches across the bottom of the work: 15 stitches total.
5. Turn work.

Body of Shawl:
1. K3, place marker, yo, K3, place marker, yo, K3, yo, place marker, K3, yo, place marker, K3.
2. Knit.
IMG_00073. K3, #, yo, K4, #, yo, K5, yo #, K4, yo, #, K3.
4. Knit.
5. K3, #, yo, K5, #, yo, K7, yo, #, K5 yo, #, K3.
6. Knit.
7. K3, #, yo, K6, #, yo, K9, yo, #, K6 yo, #, K3.
8. Knit.
9. K3, #, yo, K7, #, yo, K11, yo, #, K7 yo, #, K3.
10. Knit.
From here on out, repeat the following two rows:
Odd numbered rows: K3, #, yo, K each stitch, #, yo, K each stitch, yo, #, K each stitch, yo, #, K3
Even numbered rows: Knit.

Edging:
When the shawl is as large as you want it, and at the end of an even numbered row:
1. K3, yo, *K, yo, repeat from * until 3 stitches are left on the row, K3. As you come to a marker, remove it and set it aside. You don’t need them any more.
2. K3, K the next yo, *K, slip the yo off the needle without working it, repeat from * until K, yo, K3 is left on your right needle. K1, K in the yarn over, K3.  Slipping the yo off allows the loop of the knit stitches on that row to pull out way long. This is what you want to happen.
3. Knit 4 rows.
4. Bind off loosely.

IMG_0021

This is an example of a “doll’ size version of this shawl to show what the edging looks like.

Stockinette Variation 1:
On the even numbered rows: K3, purl until the last 3 stitches on the needle, K3.
This creates a garter stitch border, with the three center sections done in stockinette.
Finish off with the Edging pattern above.

Stockinette Variation 2:
On the even numbered rows: K3, #, P #, K, #, P, #, K3.
This creates a garter stitch border, with the center section in garter stitch, and the sections on either side in stockinette. Finish off with the Edging pattern above.