Original No Frills Toboggan Cap
This is a very simple, easy toboggan cap that is worked all in stockinette (except the hemming part is a bit tricky). The “hemming” of the bottom gives a double thickness over the ears and forehead for extra warmth, without the need to fold up the bottom of the cap. The things you need to know to make it: How to do a provisional cast on, how to knit in the round, how to do a knit stitch, a k2tog and an ssk. TV knitting at its finest.
1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: whichever one strikes your fancy. (or any DK weight yarn.) You can easily get 3 hats out of 2 skeins.
Needle: Size US4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle, and a set of US4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). (optional: a second US4 (3.5 mm) circular needle of any length if you have one)
9 Stitch markers, with one of a distinct color or type from the others to use as a row marker.
Body of Hat:
On the 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90 stitches using provisional cast on method.
Join, place row marker, and knit in the round for 8-1/4 inches (21 cm), stopping at the end of the row.
Hemming the Bottom:
(See illustration at left) Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold purl side inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row purlwise from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle, being careful to keep the stitch in the same orientation. Knit it and the first stitch on the working row together (k2tog). Be sure when you are knitting the two stitches together that the provisional stitch is on the right and the working stitch is on the left, so that when the k2tog is worked, the provisional stitch will end up on the wrong side of your work. Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and knit it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around in this fashion until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the folded portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 90 stitches.
Continue knitting for another 3 inches (7.5 cm), then work Decreases.
Row 1: *knit 10, place marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *ssk, k8, repeat from * to end of row. (81 stitches)
Row 3: knit
Row 4: *ssk, k7, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: *ssk, k6, repeat from * to end of row. (63 stitches)
Row 7: knit.
Row 8: *ssk, k5, repeat from * to end of row. (54 stitches)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: *ssk, k4, repeat from * to end of row. (45 stitches)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: *ssk, k3, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: *ssk, k2, repeat from * to end of row. (27 stitches)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: *ssk, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (18 stitches)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row. (9 stitches)
Row 19: knit.
Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to thread through all the stitches, and fasten. Weave in the end.