Materials:
Worsted weight yarn, 12 oz worth.
14-inch long size US11 (8.0 mm) straight needles (or size US11/8.0 mm 32-inch circular needle)
stitch markers
Note: Work every stitch on every row. Do not slip stitches at the beginning or end of a row in order to “neaten” the edge. The two-stitch stockinette edging along the sides is supposed to curl. It will make a neat little folded over edge if you’ll just let it.
Cast on 116 stitches using the long-tail cast-on method. .
Pattern Stitch:
Row 1: K7, *yo, k3, pass the first of the 3 knitted stitches over the second and third stitches;
repeat from * until 7 stitches remain, yo, k7.
Row 2: p2, K5, p1, p2tog, purl until 7 stitches remain, k5, p2..
Row 3: K7, *yo, k3, pass the first of the 3 knit stitches over the second and third stitches;
repeat from * until 7 stitches remain, yo, k7.
Row 4: p2, K5, purl until 9 stitches remain, p2tog, p1, k5, p2.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: p2, k5, purl until 7 stitches remain, k5, p2
Row 7: k7, purl until 7 stitches remain, k7.
Row 8: p2, k5, purl until 7 stitches remain, k5, p2
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: p2, k5, purl until 7 stitches remain, k5, p2
Repeat these 10 rows 14 more times.
Putting this beautiful pattern, which was written by Barbara Hunter and is out of print, where I can find it again.
Size: 33” x 35”
Materials:
Worsted weight yarn, 11 oz worth.
14-inch long size US11 (8.0 mm) straight needles (or size US11/8.0 mm 32-inch circular needle)
2 stitch markers
Instructions:
Cast on 116 stitches and knit 10 rows for garter stitch border
Work in pattern stitch as follows:
Pattern Stitch:
Row 1: K7, place marker for end of side border, purl to last 7 stitches, place marker for beg of side border, k7.
Row 2: K7, slip marker, k1; *yo, k3, pass the first of the 3 knitted stitches over the second and third stitches; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before marker, k1, slip marker, k7.
Row 3: K7, slip marker, purl to next marker, slip marker, k7.
Row 4: K7, slip marker, k2; *yo, k3, pass the first of the 3 knit stitches over the second and third stitches; repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k7.
Row 5: K7, slip marker, purl to next marker, k7.
Rows 6-10: Knit.
Repeat these 10 rows 14 more times, ending with Row 5 on last repeat.
For 0-3 month size, use fingering weight yarn and US size 2/2.75 mm needles
For 6 month size, use fingering or sport weight yarn and US size 3/3.25 mm or US size 4/ 3.5 mm needles.
Work the Two-At-A-Time Toe-up Socks pattern to the point that you are ready to bind off the cuff. Note that even though this is technically a sock pattern, booties made using this pattern stay on very well and are difficult for a baby to kick off.
Row 1: *P1, yo, repeat from *to end of row (60 stitches)
Row 2: *P2, yo, repeat from * to end of row (90 stitches)
Row 3: *P10, yo, repeat from * to end of row (99 stitches)
Row 4: *P2tog, p2tog, yo, p2, yo, p2, yo, p1, yo, p2tog, p2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Purl
Row 8: *P2tog, p2tog, yo, p2, yo, p2, yo, p1, yo, p2tog, p2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: Knit
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: Purl
Row 12: Knit
Row 13: Purl
Row 14: Knit
Row 15: Bind off purlwise.
Matching bonnet for Meadow Sweet Dress
Size: 0- 3 months
Requirements:
Around 16g of DK yarn
US 6 (4 mm) needles
4 row markers
Pattern:
Cast on 66sts
Place a row marker at the beginning and ending of this row.
Row 1-10: Knit.
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: *K2tog, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2tog, repeat from * to end
Row 14: Knit
These 4 rows form the pattern. Repeat rows 11-14 for 6 times more.
Row 39: K2tog, knit to end (65 stitches) Put a row marker at the beginning and end of this row.
Row 40: K2tog, knit to end (64 stitches)
Row 41: *K6, K2tog, repeat from * to end of row (56sts)
Row 42: Purl to end
Row 43: *K5, K2tog, repeat from * to end of row (48sts)
Row 44: Purl to end
Row 45: *K4, K2tog, repeat from * to end of row (40sts)
Row 46: Purl to end
Row 47: *K3, K2tog, repeat from * to end of row (32sts)
Row 48: Purl to end
Row 49: *K2, K2tog, repeat from * to end of row (24sts)
Row 50: Purl to end
Row 51: *K1, K2tog, repeat from * to end of row (16sts)
Row 52: Purl to end
Row 53: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of row (8sts
Row 54: Purl to end
Cut yarn (leaving a long ‘tail’ to use for sewing up). Draw the end through all stitches, pull up tightly. Match up the two inner row markers and seam from the back of the head to the markers. Remove markers. Darn away ends.
Band:
At left front, with right side facing, pick up 34 stitches along bottom edge of cap between the two remaining markers. Using chain cast on, cast on an additional 16 stitches for a total of 50 stitches.
Row 1: P1, k1 to last 6 stitches, p6.
Row 2: K6, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: P1, k1 to last 6 stitches, p6.
Row 4: P6, *P1, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p2tog, yo, p1, k1.
Row 5: P1, k1 to last 6 stitches, p6.
Row 6: K6, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: Bind off knit stitches knitwise and purl stitches purlwise.
Darn away ends. Attach button to the stockinette area of the band.
Materials
DK or worsted weight yarn
US 6 (4 mm) straight needles
Yarn needle for finishing and attaching button
1 (” [1.5 cm]) button
GAUGE
22 sts and 28 rows make 4″ (10 cm) in stitch pattern
DIRECTIONS
BRIM:
CO 68 (72, 76) sts.
Rows 1–7: Knit for 7 rows.
Row 8: Knit for 48 (52, 56) stitches, wrap, place marker, turn work.
Row 9: Knit for 28 (32, 34) stitches, wrap, place marker, turn work.
Row 10: Knit for 31 (36, 40) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 11: Knit for 36 (40, 44) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 12: Knit for 40 (44, 48) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 13: Knit for 44 (48, 52) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 14: Knit for 48 (52, 56) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 15: Knit for 52 (56, 60) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 16: Knit for 56 (60, 64) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 17: Knit for 60 (64, 68) stitches, wrap, move marker, turn work.
Row 18: Knit to end of row. Remove marker.
CAP
Row 20-25: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 26: (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 27: (WS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 28: *P2, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 29: *P2, k2; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 26–29 until work measures 4″ (4.5″, 5″) (10 [12, 13) cm] from beg, ending with a WS row, and inc 4 (2, 0) sts evenly across last row—72 (74, 76) sts.
Band:
At left front, with wrong side facing, pick up 38 (40, 42) stitches along bottom edge of cap. Using chain cast on, cast on an additional 16 stitches for a total of 54 (56, 58) stitches.
Row 1: K1, p1 to last 6 stitches, k6.
Row 2: P6, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: K1, p1 to last 6 stitches, k6.
Row 4: P6, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2tog, yo, k1, p1.
Row 5: K1, p1 to last 6 stitches, k6.
Row 6: P6, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: Bind off knit stitches knitwise and purl stitches purlwise.
For 0-3 month size, use fingering weight yarn and US size 2/2.75 mm needles
For 6 month size, use fingering or sport weight yarn and US size 3/3.25 mm or US size 4/ 3.5 mm needles.
Work the Two-At-A-Time Toe-up Socks pattern to the point that you are ready to bind off the cuff. Note that even though this is technically a sock pattern, booties made using this pattern stay on very well and are difficult for a baby to kick off.
Row 1: Kfb in every stitch. (60 stitches)
Row 2-3: *K2, P2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4-5: *P2, K2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6-7: *K2, P2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *K2, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (80 stitches)
Row 9: P.
Row 10: K.
Row 11: P.
Row 12: K.
Row 13: Bind off purl wise.
Abbreviations:
Kfb – knit front and back of the stitch.
The dress and baby booties pictured here were made from 2 skeins of
Lion Brand Babysoft yarn, 4 oz/113g; 367 yd/335m ball
Color Parfait Print, 2 skeins.
DK (8ply) yarn 80g
US size 6/4mm 24-inch long circular needles.
2 small buttons
Note: The top part of this dress is taken from Marianna’s Starting Out Knitted Baby Dress
For matching baby booties, see here.
For matching bonnet, see here.
Begin knitting in the round by overlapping the three stitches that form the garter stitch border at the beginning and end of the row, making sure the side with the button holes is on top. Transfer the 3 stitches at the end of the row from the right-hand needle to a cable needle, then alternating one stitch from the left-hand needle and one stitch from the cable hand needle transfer all six stitches to the right-hand needle, starting with the last stitch on the row, interleaving them in the process. Your working yarn should be ready to continue knitting on around. Place row marker.
Row 32: Knit to last 6 stitches (the garter stitch border stitches from the beginning and end of the row that you interleaved), K2tog three times. (89) stitches
Row 33: K22, k2tog, K to end of row. (88 stitches)
Row 34: Purl.
Row 35: Knit.
Row 36: Purl.
Row 37: Knit.
Row 38: Purl.
Row 39: *(Kfb, k1) repeat from * to end of row. (132 stitches)
Begin Skirt Pattern:
Skirt Pattern:
Row 1: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat these four rows until the skirt is as long as desired, ending on the fourth pattern row. Finish skirt by working Skirt Edging.
ABBREVIATIONS:
kfb — knit in both the front and the back of a stitch, which equals a 1-stitch increase.
K2togfb — With your needle inserted into two stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit front and back.
yrn — British abbreviation for yarn over.
Little Miss Raelyn Rose Baby Dress (6 – 9 months)
DK (8ply) yarn 100g
US size 6/4 mm 24-inch long circular needles
2 small buttons
Note: The top part of this dress is taken from Marianna’s Starting Out Knitted Baby Dress
For matching baby booties, see here.
Begin knitting in the round by overlapping the three stitches that form the garter stitch border at the beginning and end of the row, making sure the side with the button holes is on top. Transfer the 3 stitches at the end of the row from the right-hand needle to a cable needle, then alternating one stitch from the left-hand needle and one stitch from the cable hand needle transfer all six stitches to the right-hand needle, starting with the last stitch on the row, interleaving them in the process. Your working yarn should be ready to continue knitting on around. Place row marker.
Row 32: Knit to last 6 stitches (the 3 garter stitch border stitches from the beginning and end of the row that you interleaved), K2tog three times. (101) stitches
Row 33: Knit until last 2 stitches of row, kfb, K1. (102 stitches)
Row 34: Purl.
Row 35: Knit.
Row 36: Purl.
Row 37: Knit.
Row 38: Purl.
Row 39: *(Kfb, k1) repeat from * to last two stitches on row, kfb, kfb. (154 stitches)
Begin Skirt Pattern.
Skirt Pattern:
Row 1: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat these four rows until the skirt is as long as desired, ending on the fourth pattern row. Finish skirt by working Skirt Edging.
ABBREVIATIONS:
kfb — knit in both the front and the back of a stitch, which equals a 1-stitch increase.
K2togfb — With your needle inserted into two stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit front and back.
yrn — British abbreviation for yarn over.
To fit a baby of around 3 months
DK weight yarn 90g
US size #6/4.0 mm 24-inch circular knitting needle
2 small buttons
Matching baby bonnet is here
Matching baby booties are here:
Note: This pattern is from Marianna’s Lazy Daisy Days. I have modified it to be “no sew” (the skirt is worked in the round), and so that it uses American knitting abbreviations.
From this point, the garment will be worked in the round. With the wrong side facing you, slip the last three stitches of the row (the garter stitch edging) off onto a holding needle. Bring the stitches on the holding needle around and align them with the 3-stitch garter stitch edge at the beginning of the row so that they overlap (see below), making sure that the edge with the button holes is on top and the edge without the button holes is underneath. Slip stitches one at a time onto the right-hand needle alternately from the left hand needle and the holding needle until all six stitches have been transferred over to the left-hand needle.
Place a row marker. This joins the work for knitting in the round with the right side of the garment on the outside and the wrong side on the inside.
32nd Row: Working in the round, knit until there are six stitches left on the needle. K2tog three times. (89 sts)
33rd Row: *(Kfb, k1) repeat from * to last 3 stitches on the needle. Kfb, K2tog. (132 sts)
34th Row: Knit.
Skirt:
1st Row: Knit
2nd Row: Knit
3rd Row: *K2tog, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
4th Row: Purl
Repeat rows 1-4 until the dress is the length desired.
Finishing the Skirt:
1st Row: Knit.
2nd Row: Purl.
3rd Row: Knit.
4th Row: Purl.
Cast off knitwise – loosely – (if you find it difficult to do this – use a larger size needle)
Darn away ends
Sew on buttons
Add a little crochet flower if desired
Abbreviations:
K2tog – knit two stitches together.
Kfb – knit in the front and back of the stitch