Simple Pleasures Hat With Ribbed Hemmed Brim

Simple Pleasures Hat with Ribbed Hemmed Brim

Materials
Worsted weight (Medium:4) yarn, about 135 yds/123 m
(shown is 1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: Parrot)
US 7 (4.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle.
US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needle set.
Row marker.
8 stitch markers of a different style or color from the row marker.

Cast On: 72 stitches using provisional cast on.
Row 1-8: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: purl
Row 10-18: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 19: pick up stitches from provisional cast on onto a double pointed needle. Transfer the first stitch of the provisional cast on to the working needle and knit it and the first stitch on the working needle together (k2tog). Transfer the next stitch from the provisional cast on to the working needle and purl it and the next stitch on the working needle together (p2tog). Repeat this process until all the working stitches and provisional cast on stitches have been knitted or purled together.
Row 20: *k3, kfb, repeat from * to end of row (90 stitches)
Row 21: *k9, kf b, repeat from * to end of row (99 stitches)
Row 22:  Knit.
Continue knitting in the round until piece measures 8 inches from top to bottom, then work decreases.

Decreases:
Row 1: *k11, place marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *ssk, k9, repeat from * to end of row (90 stitches).
Row 3: *ssk, k8, repeat from * to end of row (81 stitches).
Row 4: *ssk, k7, repeat from * to end of row (72 stitches).
Row 5: *ssk, k6, repeat from * to end of row (63 stitches).
Row 6: *ssk, k5, repeat from * to end of row (54 stitches).
Row 7: *ssk, k4, repeat from * to end of row (45 stitches).
Row 8: *ssk, k3, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches).
Row 9: *ssk, k2, repeat from * to end of row (27 stitches).
Row 10: *ssk, k1, repeat from * to end of row (18 stitches).
Row 11: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row (9 stitches).
Row 12: ssk x 4, k1. (5 stitches).
Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to pull through all the stitches on the needle, draw them tight and fasten them off. Weave in yarn end. Enjoy.

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Ukrainian Nako Beret

Ukrainian Nako Beret

Translated from a Ukrainian pattern and pictures I found on the internet.

This pattern assumes you know how to do a provisional cast on, grafting, and a crocheted join.  See pictures at the end of the post.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
US6 (4.0 mm) or US7 (4.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle
A cable needle

(Provisional) cast on 16
First Triangle Only
Row 1: p3, k8 (cable), p3, k1, yo, k1
Row 2: and all wrong side rows, purl the purls and knit the knits according to the pattern, except as noted.
Row 3: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k2
Row 5: p3, C8F, p3, k1, yo, k3
Row 7: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k4
Row 9: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k5
Row 11: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k6
Row 13: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k7
Row 15: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k8
Row 17: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k9
Row 19: p3, C8F, p3, k1, yo, k10
Row 21: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k11
Row 23: p3, C8F, p3, k1, yo, k12
Row 25: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k14
Row 26: purl the purl stitches and knit the knit stitches in pattern.

All Subsequent Triangles
Begin the triangle decrease as follows. Make note to work C8F instead of K8 on the 12th row after the previous cable cross:
Row 1: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 2: and all wrong side rows except as noted, purl the purls and knit the knits
Row 3: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k1, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 5: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k2, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 7: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k3, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 9: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k4, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 11: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k5, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 13: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k6, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 15: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k7, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 17: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k8, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 19: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k9, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 21: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k10, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 23: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k11, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 25: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k12, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.
Row 27: p3, k8, p3, k1, yo, k13, ssk, turn work and work wrong side row in pattern.

Repeat rows 1-27 above until all six triangles have been worked.

Graft the ends of the cable band and use a crochet hook to join the edges of the first and sixth triangles. Picking up stitches around the right edge of the cable and working in the round, work 12 rows of k1, p1 ribbing and bind off.

*******
I found these pictures on the interwebs which I image searched and found the below pattern for. The above is my best shot at a translation.  The original pattern is from here:

набрать 16 петель
1 ряд: 3 изн,8 лиц(косичка),3 изн,1 лиц,1 накид,1 лиц
2 ряд и все изнаночные по рисунку
3 ряд: 3 изн,8 лиц,3 изн,1 лиц, накид,2 лиц
5 ряд: 3 изн,8 лиц,3 изн,1 лиц, накид,3 лиц
7 ряд: 3 изн,8 лиц,3 изн,1 лиц, накид,4 лиц
9 ряд: 3 изн,8 лиц,3 изн,1 лиц, накид,5 лиц
11 ряд: 3 изн,8 лиц,3 изн,1 лиц, накид,6 лиц
12 ряд: 3 изн,8 лиц. скрестить 4х4,3 изн,1 лиц, накид,7 лиц.
скрещивание косички каждые 12 рядов. Когда треугольничек будет из 14 петель начинаем убавления и 2 треугольничек, в каждом лицевом ряду убавляем по 1 петли. примерно так:… накид,2 вместе и поворачиваем вязание, остальные петли остаются на спице, этим образом первый треугольничек убавляется, второй прибавляется.
Берет состоит из 6 треугольничков.
после набрать из кромки косички петли и связать резинку. Выполнить шов соединения.

Wedding Yarmulke

 Wedding Yarmulke

Materials:
1 skein Caron Simply Soft, medium:4, 170.1 g/6 oz, 288 m/315 yds, color: white.
US size 6 (4.0 mm) 16-inch circular needles.
US size 6 (4.0 mm) double pointed needles.
Stitch markers (12, with one odd color or distinct shape for row marker)

Cast On: 98 stitches using long tail cast on, or German twisted cast on method.
Row 1-6: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *(k8, kfb) x10, repeat from * until 8 stitches remain, k8. (108 stitches)
Row 8: *p3, k6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *p3, k6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10: *p3, k6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 11: *p3, C6F, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 12: *p3, k6, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 9-12 five times.

Decrease:
Row 1: *p3, k6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *p1, p2tog, k6, repeat from * to end of row. (96 stitches)
Row 3: *p2, C6F, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *p2tog, k6, repeat from * to end of row. (84 stitches)
Row 5: *p1, k6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *k2tog, k5, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 7: *knit.
Row 8: *k2tog, k4, repeat from * to end of row. (60 stitches)
Row 9: *knit.
Row 10: *k2tog, k3, repeat from * to end of row. (48 stitches)
Row 11: *knit.
Row 12: *k2tog, k2. (36 stitches)
Row 13: *knit
Row 14: *k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (24 stitches)
Row 15: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (12 stitches)
Row 16: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (6 stitches)
Cut yarn and thread end through stitches on needle, and fasten off. Work in ends.

PussyHat

2017_02_03-04

Made with 2 skeins of Lily Sugar & Cream 2.5 oz/70.9 g, 120 yds/109 m, color: Hot Pink.

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Made with 2 skeins of Lion Brand Hometown USA Super bulky:6, 4 oz/113 g, 64 yd/59m, color Phoenix Azalea.

Seamless Top-Down PussyHat

static1-squarespace-comShow your solidarity with the Women’s March and the issues it represents by wearing a PussyHat.

This is a seamless, top-down version of the PussyHat which uses the Turkish cast-on method and either the Magic Loop method or the two circular needle method for knitting in the round. (Modifications of the pattern for use with bulky:5 and super bulky:6 weight yarn are given in italics.)  YouTube has many how-to videos showing how to do the Turkish cast-on, the Magic Loop method and the two circular needles method.

Materials:

  • 1 skein pink knitting worsted (medium:4), color PINK! (or 2 skeins bulky:5 or super bulky:6 weight yarn)
  • For the Magic Loop method you will need a size US8 (5.0 mm) (for bulky, US10 (6.0 mm) and for super bulky yarn, US11(8.0 mm)) 32-inch circular needle  or longer to do the first part of the hat.
  • For the two needle method you will need two size US8 (5.0 mm) (for bulky, US 10(6.0 mm) and for super bulky yarn, US11 (8.0 mm)) circular needle 16 to 24 inches long.
  • 1 row marker

Cast on:  Using the Turkish cast-on method, cast on 46 wraps, which will equal 92 stitches (for bulky:5, 32 wraps, will equal 64 stitches and for super bulky:6, 28 wraps, will equal 56 stitches).
1. Working in the round, knit every row until work measures 4-1/4 inches. (Note that whichever method you use, by the time you have knitted 2-3 inches, you should be able to knit all your stitches off onto one 16-inch long circular needle and knit in the round as you would any other hat.)
2. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 4-1/4 inches.
3. Bind off loosely, binding off knit stitches knitwise and purl stitches purlwise.
4. Wear with pride.

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Turkish Cast On using two circular knitting needles (the 16-inch and a 32-inch). Arrows show direction of work.

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Turkish Cast On using Magic Loop method on one 32- inch circular knitting needle. Arrows show direction of work.

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The Turkish Cast On makes it seamless across the top.

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Knitting in the round makes the sides seamless. Arrows show direction of work.

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Work is now long enough to go off the long Magic Loop needle and onto one 16-inch circular needle. Arrows show direction of work.  Sides and top are seamless

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The “kitty ears” are now evident.

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Totally seamless,

Chevronica Scarf

2016_03_25-01Chevronica Scarf

Yarn: Anything from a 2: Fine (5 ply) to a 5: Bulky (12 ply) weight yarn
Needles: Anything from a US 5 (3.75 mm) to a US 10 (6.0 mm)
Notions: 2 stitch markers

Be creative. Thin yarn on smaller needles makes it delicate, thin yarn on larger needles makes it lacy, bulky yarn on big needles makes it for winter. Swatch it and see how you like it. The example pictured is done with a 2: Fine (5 ply) yarn on a US 8 (5 mm) needle.

Pattern Stitch:
Row 1: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 2: P1, *yo, k3, k3tog, k3, yo, p1; rep from *.
Row 3: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 4: P1, *k1, yo, k2, K3tog, k2, yo, k1, p1; rep from *.
Row 5: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 6: P1, *k2, yo, k1, K3tog, k1, yo, k2, p1; rep from *.
Row 7: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 8: P1, *k3, yo, K3tog, yo, k3, p1; rep from *.

Beginning Border of Scarf:
Cast on 37
Rows 1-6 : Knit.
Place a marker after the first 3 stitches and before the last 3 stitches on the row to establish a 3-stitch garter stitch border. From here on to the ending border, always knit the first 3 and last 3 stitches of every row. The pattern stitch is worked over the 31 stitches between the markers.
Row 7: P1, * k9, p1; rep from *.
Row 8: K1* p9, k1; rep from *.

Work the pattern stitch as given above, repeating those 8 rows until the scarf has reached the desired length.

Ending Border of Scarf.:
Row 1: K1* p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 2: P1, * k9, p1; rep from *.
Rows 3-8 : Knit.
Bind off.

Variation:
The above pattern is itself a variant of the classic horseshoe lace stitch. I have varied it in two ways. I have replaced the “purl” on the odd numbered rows with “K1, p9” and I have replaced the “sl 1, k2tog, psso” with a “k3tog,” which makes it a little poochy at that point, but gives it an interesting texture and dimension, I think.

Here is a second variant where the “k3tog” is replaced by a “sl1, k1, pnso, psso” which takes the pooch out, and gives yet another interesting texture.

sl1, k1, pnso, psso – slip 1 stitch knitwise (sl 1) onto the right needle. Knit the next stitch (k1). Put the knitted stitch back onto the lefthand needle, and pass the next stitch to the left of it over the knitted stitch (pnso), put the knitted stitch back on the right hand needle and pass the slipped stitch over it (psso). Continue with the pattern.

This variant is knitted the same way with the garter stitch borders as the version above, but using the below as the pattern stitch.

Variant Pattern Stitch:
Row 1: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 2: P1, *yo, k3, sl1, k1, pnso, psso, k3, yo, p1; rep from *.
Row 3: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 4: P1, *k1, yo, k2 sl1, k1, pnso, psso, k2, yo, k1, p1; rep from *.
Row 5: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 6: P1, *k2, yo, k1, sl1, k1, pnso, psso, k1, yo, k2, p1; rep from *.
Row 7: K1, *p9, k1; rep from *.
Row 8: P1, *k3, yo, sl1, k1, pnso, psso, yo, k3, p1; rep from *.

2016_03_29-02Here’s the variant version of this scarf done in Red Heart Gumdrop color Grape, “Medium 4”, 4 oz/113 g, 240 yds/187 m on a size US 10/6.0 mm

Little Miss Raelyn Rose Matching Baby Booties.

2015_06_17-03For 0-3 month size, use fingering weight yarn and US size 2/2.75 mm needles
For 6 month size, use fingering or sport weight yarn and US size 3/3.25 mm or US size 4/ 3.5 mm needles.

Work the Two-At-A-Time Toe-up Socks pattern to the point that you are ready to bind off the cuff. Note that even though this is technically a sock pattern, booties made using this pattern stay on very well and are difficult for a baby to kick off.

Row 1:  Kfb in every stitch. (60 stitches)
Row 2-3:  *K2, P2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4-5:  *P2, K2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6-7:  *K2, P2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8:  *K2, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (80 stitches)
Row 9:  P.
Row 10:  K.
Row 11:  P.
Row 12:  K.
Row 13:  Bind off purl wise.

Abbreviations:
Kfb – knit front and back of the stitch.

2015_06_17-01

The dress and baby booties pictured here were made from 2 skeins of
Lion Brand Babysoft yarn, 4 oz/113g; 367 yd/335m ball
Color Parfait Print, 2 skeins.

Little Miss Raelyn Rose Baby Dress

2015_06_17-02

The dress pictured here was made from 1 skein of Lion Brand Babysoft yarn, 4 oz/113g; 367 yd/335m ball Color Parfait Print

Little Miss Raelyn Rose Baby Dress (0-3 months)

DK (8ply) yarn 80g
US size 6/4mm 24-inch long circular needles.
2 small buttons
Note: The top part of this dress is taken from Marianna’s Starting Out Knitted Baby Dress
For matching baby booties, see here.
For matching bonnet, see here.

 

Cast on 68sts
Row 1: K5, kfb, k1, kfb, k11, kfb, k1, kfb, k17, kfb, k1, kfb, k11, kfb, k1, kfb, k9
Row 2: Knit to end
Row 3: K1, yrn, k2tog (buttonhole), k6, kfb, k1, kfb, k13, kfb, k1, kfb, k19, kfb, k1, kfb, k13, kfb, k1, kfb, k10
Row 4: Knit to end
Row 5: K10, kfb, k1, kfb, k15, kfb, k1, kfb, k21, kfb, k1, kfb, k15, kfb, k1, kfb, k11
Row 6: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 7: K11, kfb, k1, kfb, k17, kfb, k1, kfb, k23, kfb, k1, kfb, k17, kfb, k1, kfb, k12
Row 8: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 9: K12, kfb, k1, kfb, k19, kfb, k1, kfb, k25, kfb, k1, kfb, k19, kfb, k1, kfb, k13
Row 10: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 11: K13, kfb, k1, kfb, k21, kfb, k1, kfb, k27, kfb, k1, kfb, k21, kfb, k1, kfb, k14
Row 12: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 13: K14, kfb, k1, kfb, k23, kfb, k1, kfb, k29, kfb, k1, kfb, k23, kfb, k1, kfb, k15
Row 14: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 15: K15, kfb, k1, kfb, k25, kfb, k1, kfb, k31, kfb, k1, kfb, k25, kfb, k1, kfb, k16
Row 16: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 17: K1, yrn, k2tog (buttonhole), k13, kfb, k1, kfb, k27, kfb, k1, kfb, k33, kfb, k1, kfb, k27, kfb, k1, kfb, k17
Row 18: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 19: K17, kfb, k1, kfb, k29, kfb, k1, kfb, k35, kfb, k1, kfb, k29, kfb, k1, kfb, k18
Row 20: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 21: K18, kfb, k1, kfb, k31, kfb, k1, kfb, k37, kfb, k1, kfb, k31, kfb, k1, kfb, k19
Row 22: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 23: K18, kfb, k1, kfb, k33, kfb, k1, kfb, k39, kfb, k1, kfb, k33, kfb, k1, kfb, k20
Row 24: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 25: knit to end (164sts)
Row 26: K3, p20, k36, p46, k36, p20, k3
Row 27: Knit to end
Row 28: K3, p20, k36, p46, k36, p20, k3
Row 29: Knit to end
Row 30: K3, p20, cast off 36sts knitwise, p45, cast off 36sts knitwise, p19, k3
Row 31: K22, K2togfb, K44, K2togfb, K22 (23sts/back, 46sts/front, 23sts/back = 92sts)

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Begin knitting in the round by overlapping the three stitches that form the garter stitch border at the beginning and end of the row, making sure the side with the button holes is on top. Transfer the 3 stitches at the end of the row from the right-hand needle to a cable needle, then alternating one stitch from the left-hand needle and one stitch from the cable hand needle transfer all six stitches to the right-hand needle, starting with the last stitch on the row, interleaving them in the process. Your working yarn should be ready to continue knitting on around. Place row marker.

Row 32: Knit to last 6 stitches (the garter stitch border stitches from the beginning and end of the row that you interleaved), K2tog three times. (89) stitches
Row 33: K22, k2tog, K to end of row. (88 stitches)
Row 34: Purl.
Row 35: Knit.
Row 36: Purl.
Row 37: Knit.
Row 38: Purl.
Row 39: *(Kfb, k1) repeat from * to end of row. (132 stitches)

Begin Skirt Pattern:

Skirt Pattern:
Row 1: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat these four rows until the skirt is as long as desired, ending on the fourth pattern row. Finish skirt by working Skirt Edging.

Skirt Edging:
Row 1: Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Purl.
Bind off loosely.

Darn in ends.
Sew on buttons.

ABBREVIATIONS:
kfb — knit in both the front and the back of a stitch, which equals a 1-stitch increase.
K2togfb — With your needle inserted into two stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit front and back.
yrn — British abbreviation for yarn over.

2015_06_17-02Little Miss Raelyn Rose Baby Dress (6 – 9 months)

DK (8ply) yarn 100g
US size 6/4 mm 24-inch long circular needles
2 small buttons
Note: The top part of this dress is taken from Marianna’s Starting Out Knitted Baby Dress
For matching baby booties, see here.

Cast on 84sts
Row 1: K11, kfb, k1, kfb, k13, kfb, k1, kfb, k23, kfb, k1, kfb, k13, kfb, k1, kfb, k12
Row 2: Knit to end
Row 3: K1, yrn, k2tog (buttonhole), k9, kfb, k1, kfb, k15, kfb, k1, kfb, k25, kfb, k1, kfb, k15, kfb, k1, kfb, k13
Row 4: Knit to end
Row 5: K13, kfb, k1, kfb, k17, kfb, k1, kfb, k27, kfb, k1, kfb, k17, kfb, k1, kfb, k14
Row 6: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 7: K14, kfb, k1, kfb, k19, kfb, k1, kfb, k29, kfb, k1, kfb, k19, kfb, k1, kfb, k15
Row 8: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 9: K15, kfb, k1, kfb, k21, kfb, k1, kfb, k31, kfb, k1, kfb, k21, kfb, k1, kfb, k16
Row 10: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 11: K16, kfb, k1, kfb, k23, kfb, k1, kfb, k33, kfb, k1, kfb, k23, kfb, k1, kfb, k17
Row 12: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 13: K17, kfb, k1, kfb, k25, kfb, k1, kfb, k35, kfb, k1, kfb, k25, kfb, k1, kfb, k18
Row 14: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 15: K18, kfb, k1, kfb, k27, kfb, k1, kfb, k37, kfb, k1, kfb, k27, kfb, k1, kfb, k19
Row 16: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 17: K1, yrn, k2tog (buttonhole), k16, kfb, k1, kfb, k29, kfb, k1, kfb, k39, kfb, k1, kfb, k29, kfb, k1, kfb, k20
Row 18: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 19: K20, kfb, k1, kfb, k31, kfb, k1, kfb, k41, kfb, k1, kfb, k31, kfb, k1, kfb, k21
Row 20: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 21: K21, kfb, k1, kfb, k33, kfb, k1, kfb, k43, kfb, k1, kfb, k33, kfb, k1, kfb, k22
Row 22: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 23: K22, kfb, k1, kfb, k35, kfb, k1, kfb, k45, kfb, k1, kfb, k35, kfb, k1, kfb, k23
Row 24: K3, purl to last 3sts, k3
Row 25: Knit to end (180sts)
Row 26: K3, p23, k38, p52, k38, p23, k3
Row 27: Knit to end
Row 28: K3, p23, k38, p52, k38, p23, k3
Row 29: Knit to end
Row 30: K3, p23, cast off 38sts knitwise, p51, cast off 38sts knitwise, p22, k3
Row 31: K25, K2togfb, K50, K2togfb, K 25. (26sts for back, 52sts for front, 26sts for back = 104sts)

2015_05_08-022015_05_08-03

2015_05_08-04

Begin knitting in the round by overlapping the three stitches that form the garter stitch border at the beginning and end of the row, making sure the side with the button holes is on top. Transfer the 3 stitches at the end of the row from the right-hand needle to a cable needle, then alternating one stitch from the left-hand needle and one stitch from the cable hand needle transfer all six stitches to the right-hand needle, starting with the last stitch on the row, interleaving them in the process. Your working yarn should be ready to continue knitting on around. Place row marker.

Row 32: Knit to last 6 stitches (the 3 garter stitch border stitches from the beginning and end of the row that you interleaved), K2tog three times. (101) stitches
Row 33: Knit until last 2 stitches of row, kfb, K1. (102 stitches)
Row 34: Purl.
Row 35: Knit.
Row 36: Purl.
Row 37: Knit.
Row 38: Purl.
Row 39: *(Kfb, k1) repeat from * to last two stitches on row, kfb, kfb. (154 stitches)
Begin Skirt Pattern.

Skirt Pattern:
Row 1: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *(P2, K2) repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *(K2, P2) repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat these four rows until the skirt is as long as desired, ending on the fourth pattern row. Finish skirt by working Skirt Edging.

Skirt Edging:
Row 1: Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Purl.
Bind off loosely.

Darn in ends.
Sew on buttons.

ABBREVIATIONS:
kfb — knit in both the front and the back of a stitch, which equals a 1-stitch increase.
K2togfb — With your needle inserted into two stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit front and back.
yrn — British abbreviation for yarn over.