No-Frills Toboggan Cap, Mark II

No Frills Toboggan Cap, Mark II

This is a very simple, easy toboggan that is all stockinette (the hemming part is a bit tricky). It is a variation of the previous pattern, the differences being a deeper “hem” and the top decreases are done over a fewer number of rows.  The “hemming” of the bottom gives a double thickness over the ears and forehead for extra warmth. The things you need to know to make it: Provisional cast on, knitting in the round, how to do a knit stitch, a k2tog and an ssk,

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: whichever one strikes your fancy.
Needle: Size US4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle, and a set of US4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). (optional: a second US4 (4.5 mm) circular needle of any length if you have one)
9 Stitch markers, with one of a distinct color or type from the others to use as a row marker.

Note on Yarn Usage: You can get three hats out of two skeins of this yarn.

Body of Hat
On the 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90 stitches using provisional cast on method.
Join, place row marker, and knit in the round for 9 inches (23 cm), stopping at the end of the row.

“Hemming” the Edge:
(See illustration above) Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold purl side inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle and knit it and the first stitch on the working row together (k2tog). Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and knit it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around in this fashion until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the folded portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 90 stitches.

Continue knitting for another 3 inches (7.5 cm), then work Decreases.

Decreases:
Row 1: *knit 10, place marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *ssk, k6, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: *ssk, k4, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (54 stitches)
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: *ssk, k2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 7: Knit.
Row 8: *ssk, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (18 stitches)
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row. (9 stitches)
Row 11: *ssk, repeat from * until 1 stitch remains, k1. (5 stitches)

Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to thread through the stitches, and fasten. Weave in the end.

Original No Frills Toboggan Cap

Original No Frills Toboggan Cap

This is a very simple, easy toboggan cap that is worked all in stockinette (except the hemming part is a bit tricky). The “hemming” of the bottom gives a double thickness over the ears and forehead for extra warmth, without the need to fold up the bottom of the cap. The things you need to know to make it: How to do a provisional cast on, how to knit in the round, how to do a knit stitch, a k2tog and an ssk.  TV knitting at its finest.

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: whichever one strikes your fancy.  (or any DK weight yarn.)  You can easily get 3 hats out of 2 skeins.
Needle: Size US4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle, and a set of US4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). (optional: a second US4 (3.5 mm) circular needle of any length if you have one)
9 Stitch markers, with one of a distinct color or type from the others to use as a row marker.

Body of Hat:
On the 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90 stitches using provisional cast on method.
Join, place row marker, and knit in the round for 8-1/49 inches (21 cm), stopping at the end of the row.

Hemming the Bottom:
(See illustration at left) Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold purl side inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row purlwise from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle, being careful to keep the stitch in the same orientation.  Knit it and the first stitch on the working row together (k2tog). Be sure when you are knitting the two stitches together that the provisional stitch is on the right and the working stitch is on the left, so that when the k2tog is worked, the provisional stitch will end up on the wrong side of your work.  Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and knit it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around in this fashion until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the folded portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 90 stitches.

Continue knitting for another 3 inches (7.5 cm), then work Decreases.

Decreases:
Row 1: *knit 10, place marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *ssk, k8, repeat from * to end of row. (81 stitches)
Row 3: knit
Row 4: *ssk, k7, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 5: knit.
Row 6: *ssk, k6, repeat from * to end of row. (63 stitches)
Row 7: knit.
Row 8: *ssk, k5, repeat from * to end of row. (54 stitches)
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: *ssk, k4, repeat from * to end of row. (45 stitches)
Row 11: knit.
Row 12: *ssk, k3, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: *ssk, k2, repeat from * to end of row. (27 stitches)
Row 15: knit.
Row 16: *ssk, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (18 stitches)
Row 17: knit.
Row 18: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row. (9 stitches)
Row 19: knit.
Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to thread through all the stitches, and fasten. Weave in the end.

Beret with Cable Accents

Beret with Cable Accents

Modified from a pattern by Andi Satterlund

Materials
Yarn: 1 Skein of Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 280 yds/256 m, color “Parrot” or any Aran or worsted weight yarn. (Depending on how tight you knit, you might can get two hats from a skein of this yarn.)
Needles: 16-inch US 8 (5.0 mm) circular needles and US 8(5.0 mm) double pointed needles.
Stitch markers.

Gage: 9 stitches and 12 rows = 2 inches.

Cast on 96
Rows 1-9: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: *C6B, k2; repeat from * to end.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: *K2, kfb, k2, kfb, k1, kfb, repeat from * to end. (132 stitches)
Row 14-15: Knit.
Row 16: *C6B, K5, repeat from * to end.
Row 17: Knit.
Row 18: K7, *kfb, k10; rep from * until 3 stitches left, kfb, k3. (144 stitches).
Row 19: Knit
Row 20: *C6B, k6 , repeat from * to end of row.
Row 21-34: Knit to end.
Row 35: (K24, place a marker) 5 times, k24.
Row 36: *Ssk, knit to two stitches before marker, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
Row 37: Knit to end.
Repeat rows 36-37 until 12 stitches remain.  Change to DPN needles when necessary.
Last row: K2tog to end. 6 stitches remain
Cut your yarn leaving a six inch tail, and use the yarn needles to weave it through the live stitches on your needles.

 

Sweet Sherbet Baby Afghan by Barbara Hunter

Sweet Sherbet Baby Afghan

Putting this beautiful pattern, which was written by Barbara Hunter and is out of print, where I can find it again.

Size: 33” x 35”

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn, 11 oz worth.
14-inch long size US11 (8.0 mm) straight needles (or size US11/8.0 mm 32-inch circular needle)
2 stitch markers

Instructions:
Cast on 116 stitches and knit 10 rows for garter stitch border
Work in pattern stitch as follows:

Pattern Stitch:
Row 1: K7, place marker for end of side border, purl to last 7 stitches, place marker for beg of side border, k7.
Row 2: K7, slip marker, k1; *yo, k3, pass the first of the 3 knitted stitches over the second and third stitches; repeat from * to last 2 stitches before marker, k1, slip marker, k7.
Row 3: K7, slip marker, purl to next marker, slip marker, k7.
Row 4: K7, slip marker, k2; *yo, k3, pass the first of the 3 knit stitches over the second and third stitches; repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1, slip marker, k7.
Row 5: K7, slip marker, purl to next marker, k7.
Rows 6-10: Knit.

Repeat these 10 rows 14 more times, ending with Row 5 on last repeat.

Knit 10 rows.
Bind off.

Spiral Staircase Hat

Spiral Staircase Hat

Materials:
1 skein worsted weight (Medium:4) yarn
US size 8 (5.0 mm) 16-inch circular needle
US size 8 (5.0 mm) double pointed needles
Row marker
Stitch markers (12).

Spiraling Toward The Right
Cast on 84 stitches loosely, place marker, join to work in round.
Rows 1-8: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: Knit
Row 10: *kfb, k4, k2tog, pm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Repeat row 10 until hat measures 6-1/2 inches from the beginning.

Decrease:

Row 1: *Kfb, k3, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 2: *Kfb, k3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *Kfb, k2, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (60 stitches)
Row 4: *Kfb, k2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *Kfb, k1, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (48 stitches)
Row 6: *Kfb, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *Kfb, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 8: *Kfb, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (24 stitches)
Row 10: *k2tog, k2tog repeat from * to end of row (12 stitches)
Row 11: *k2tog, k2tog repeat from * to end of row (6 stitches)
Break yarn, leaving 6-inch tail. Thread tail through tapestry needles then through the live stitches to close the top of the hat. Weave in ends.

Note: If you want, you can substitute “k1, yo” for “kfb” in the pattern above, which gives a little lacy effect.

Spiraling Toward The Left
Cast on 84 stitches loosely, place marker, join to work in round. (98 on a US8 (4.0mm)
Rows 1-8: k1, p1* repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: *ssk, k4, kfb, pm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Repeat row 10 until hat measures 6-1/2 inches from the beginning

Note: On decreases, even numbered rows have “ssk” (slip 2 stitches) and odd numbered rows have “sssk” (slip 3 stitches)

Decrease:
Row 1: *sssk, k3, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 2: *ssk, k3, kfb, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *sssk, k2, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (60 stitches)
Row 4: *ssk, k2, kfb, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *sssk, k1, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (48 stitches)
Row 6: *ssk, k1, kfb, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *sssk, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 8: *ssk, kfb, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *ssk, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (24 stitches)
Row 10: *ssk, ssk, repeat from * to end of row (12 stitches)
Row 11: *ssk, ssk, repeat from * to end of row (6 stitches)
Break yarn, leaving 6-inch tail. Thread tail through tapestry needles then through the live stitches to close the top of the hat. Weave in ends.

Note: If you want, you can substitute “yo, k1” for “kfb” in the above pattern for a lacy effect.

Abbreviations:
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker.
ssk – slip 2 stitches as if to knit to the right-hand needle. Insert the left needle through the front of the stitch and knit the two stitches together through the back of the stitch using the right-hand needle. (left leaning decrease)
sssk – slip 3 stitches as if to knit to the right-hand needle. Insert the left needle through the front of the stitch and knit the two stitches together through the back of the stitch using the right-hand needle. (left leaning double decrease).

Coriolis Hat, Chemo Variation

Chemo Variation Rightward-Turning Spiral done in Caron Simply Soft Party, medium:4, 3 oz/85g, 150m/160 yds, color Fuchsia Sparkle

Coriolis Hat, Chemo Variation

Based on a designed by Beverly Barton

Note: The original pattern was written and designed by Beverly Barton, and results in a hat with a leftward-turning spiral. I’ve transposed it to result in a hat with a rightward-turning spiral and modified it to use kfb’s instead of yo’s for those who don’t want “nekkid scalps” to show through the eyelets in the hat.  I’ve also included the original pattern with the leftward-turning spiral

Materials
Worsted (Medium:4) weight yarn approximately 150 yards
US size 8 (5.0 mm) 16-inch circular needle
US size 8 (5.0 mm) double pointed needles
Row marker
Stitch markers (12).

Cast on 84 stitches loosely, place marker, join to work in round.
Rows 1-8: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: Knit
Row 10: *kfb, k4, k2tog, pm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 11: Knit.
Row 12: *kfb, k4, k2tog, sm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 13: Knit.
Repeat rows 12-13 until hat measures 7-1/2 inches from the beginning

Decrease:
Row 1: *Kfb, k3, k3tog repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: *Kfb, k2, k3tog repeat from * to end of row. (60 stitches)
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: *Kfb, k1, k3tog repeat from * to end of row. (48 stitches)
Row 6: knit.
Row 7: *Kfb, k3tog repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 8: knit.
Row 9: *K1, k2tog* repeat from * to end of row. (24 stitches)
Row 10: knit
Row 11: *k2tog, k2tog repeat from * to end of row (12 stitches)
Row 12: knit
Row 13: *k2tog, k2tog repeat from * to end of row (6 stitches)
Break yarn, leaving 6-inch tail. Thread tail through tapestry needles then through the live stitches to close the top of the hat. Weave in ends.

Original Coriolis Hat, Chemo Variation

Original pattern as written by Beverly Barton, which results in a hat with a leftward turning spiral, again, modified to have kfb’s instead of the eyelet producing yo’s.

Cast on 84 stitches loosely, place marker, join to work in round. (98 on a US8 (4.0mm)
Rows 1-8: k1, p1* repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: *ssk, k4, kfb, pm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 11: Knit.
Row 12: *ssk, k4, kfb, sm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 13: Knit.
Repeat rows 12-13 until hat measures 7-1/2 inches from the beginning

Decrease:
Row 1: *sssk, k3, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: *sssk, k2, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (60 stitches)
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: *sssk, k1, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (48 stitches)
Row 6: knit.
Row 7: *sssk, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 8: knit.
Row 9: *ssk, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (24 stitches)
Row 10: knit
Row 11: *ssk, ssk, repeat from * to end of row (12 stitches)
Row 12: knit
Row 13: *ssk, ssk, repeat from * to end of row (6 stitches)
Break yarn, leaving 6-inch tail. Thread tail through tapestry needles then through the live stitches to close the top of the hat. Weave in ends.

Abbreviations:
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker.
ssk – slip 2 stitches as if to knit to the right-hand needle. Insert the left needle through the front of the stitch and knit the two stitches together through the back of the stitch using the right-hand needle. (left leaning decrease)
sssk – slip 3 stitches as if to knit to the right-hand needle. Insert the left needle through the front of the stitch and knit the two stitches together through the back of the stitch using the right-hand needle. (left leaning double decrease).

Coriolis Hat.

Rightward-turning Spiral done in Patons Metallic yarn, medium:4, 85g /3 oz, 230 m/252 yd, color Blue Steel

Coriolis Hat

Based on a design by Beverly Barton

Note: The original pattern was written and designed by Ravelry expert knitter Beverly Barton, and results in a hat with a leftward-turning spiral. I’ve transposed it to result in a hat with a rightward-turning spiral.

Materials
Worsted (Medium:4) weight yarn approximately 150 yards
US size 8 (5.0 mm) 16-inch circular needle
US size 8 (5.0 mm) double pointed needles
Row marker
Stitch markers (12).

Cast on 84 stitches loosely, place marker, join to work in round.
Rows 1-9: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10: *k1, yo, k4, k2tog, pm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 11: Knit.
Row 12: *k1, yo, k4, k2tog, sm, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 13: Knit.
Repeat rows 12-13 until hat measures 7-1/2 inches from the beginning

Decrease:
Row 1: *K1, yo, k3, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: *K1, yo, k2, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (60 stitches)
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: *K1, yo, k1, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (48 stitches)
Row 6: knit.
Row 7: *K1, yo, k3tog, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 8: knit.
Row 9: *K1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (24 stitches)
Row 10: knit
Row 11: *k2tog, 2ktog, repeat from * to end of row (12 stitches)
Row 12: knit
Row 13: *k2tog, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row (6 stitches)
Break yarn, leaving 6-inch tail. Thread tail through tapestry needles then through the live stitches to close the top of the hat. Weave in ends.

Original Coriolis Hat

Original pattern as written by Beverly Barton, which results in a hat with a leftward turning spiral.

Materials:
~150 yds worsted weight yarn
US size 7 (4.5 mm) 16-inch circular needles
US size 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles
stitch markers

Cast on 84 stitches loosely, place marker, join to work in round. (98 on a US8 (4.0mm)
Rows 1-9: *k1, p1,* repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10: *ssk, k4, yo, k1, pm*, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 11: Knit.
Row 12: *ssk, k4, yo, k1, sm*, repeat from * to the end of the row.
Row 13: Knit.
Repeat rows 12-13 until hat measures 7-1/2 inches from the beginning

Decrease:
Row 1: *sssk, k3, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 2: knit.
Row 3: *sssk, k2, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (60 stitches)
Row 4: knit.
Row 5: *sssk, k1, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (48 stitches)
Row 6: knit.
Row 7: *sssk, yo, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 8: knit.
Row 9: *ssk, k1, repeat from * to end of row. (24 stitches)
Row 10: knit
Row 11: *ssk, ssk, repeat from * to end of row (12 stitches)
Row 12: knit
Row 13: *ssk, ssk, repeat from * to end of row (6 stitches)
Break yarn, leaving 6-inch tail. Thread tail through tapestry needles then through the live stitches to close the top of the hat. Weave in ends.

Abbreviations:
pm – place marker
sm – slip marker.
ssk – slip 2 stitches as if to knit to the right-hand needle. Insert the left needle through the front of the stitch and knit the two stitches together through the back of the stitch using the right-hand needle. (left leaning decrease)
sssk – slip 3 stitches as if to knit to the right-hand needle. Insert the left needle through the front of the stitch and knit the two stitches together through the back of the stitch using the right-hand needle. (left leaning double decrease).