Horizontal Eyelet Border

2018_06_22-012018_06_21-01Horizontal Eyelet Edging

This is the horizontal equivalent of the vertical eyelet edging (Row 1: k2. Row 2: k2tog, yo.) that will give you that eyelet look across the top and bottom, as well as up both sides. Usually, the horizontal edging uses (k2tog, yo,) to “mimic” the vertical eyelet edging, but this has a noticeably thicker appearance than the eyelet twists of the vertical edging. This edging gives you that same twist of yarn, so that your border looks the same all the way around.

If you have a pattern you want to modify, you can replace the “eyelet” rows (the row of k2tog’s and yo’s, and the subsequent row of knit) with this version.

Abbreviations:
psro = pass the stitch to the right over the last stitch knitted. (Unlike the traditional “psso” where the first stitch is slipped without being worked, BOTH stitches are knitted.)
sspbl, ptbl = insert right needle as though to purl through the back loop and slip the stitch to the right needle, put the slipped stitch back on the left needle and purl through the back loop.
nbs = number of border stitches

If you are modifying a pattern, note the number of stitches to be cast on. If this number is even, cast on that many stitches -1, as row 1 of the eyelet pattern requires an odd number of stitches to work out right. Knit the number of border rows the pattern calls for. (Or if you are writing a pattern, either make sure the number of stitches to be cast on is an odd number, or add or subtract a stitch somewhere in the border rows. If you are doing garter stitch horizontal borders, the number of rows will equal the number of stitches in the vertical border + 2 rows, i.e., if the vertical border is 5 stitches wide, the horizontal borders will be 7 rows wide.)

Eyelet Rows:
Row 1: k(nbs), *k2, psro, repeat from * until (nbs + 1) remain, k2, psro, knit to end of row.
Row 2: k(nbs), *yo, sspbl, ptbl, repeat from * until (nbs) remain, yo, knit to the end of the row.

Note that you will gain a stitch on row 1 (number of stitches on the previous row +1). If you are modifying a pattern, you will need to take this extra stitch into account to make sure you don’t have too many stitches when you go back to the pattern. Most patterns that use (K2tog, yo) to mimic the vertical eyelet row usually start “yo, *K2tog, yo, repeat from . . .”, and that leading “yo” also adds a stitch, so this isn’t usually a problem.

However, if you are writing a pattern, and the body stitch you wish to use requires an even number of stitches, you will need to take this into account.  You can shed that extra stitch by knitting the next row, then on the next row, change the first (k2tog, yo) to a (k3tog, yo) and start your body stitch pattern. To maintain symmetry, on the top border, do a knit row, with a kfb somewhere on that row, to set up for the eyelet rows, then do row 1, and row 2.

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Cobblestones and Lace Shawl

Cobblestones and Lace Shawl

This triangular shawl is knitted from corner to corner and has a garter stitch lace edging that is knitted on at the same time.

You can get this pattern as a PDF file here: Shawl – Cobblestones and Lace Shawl condensed version,
Or you can get the “linear” version as a PDF file here:  Shawl – Cobblestones and Lace shawl

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (Medium:4) 10 oz/283 g, 482 yds/440 m
US size 8 (5.0 mm) circular needle 32-inch (80 cm) or 40-inch (102 cm)
1 stitch marker.

Abbreviations:
P# = place marker
# = marker

Garter Stitch Lace Edging:
On the lace edging, the stitch count for the right sided rows varies from row to row. The stitches are counted from the marker between the body of the shawl and the edging, with the number of stitches for that lace row given in parentheses at the end.

Row 1(RSR): k2, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k3tog, (k1, yo) twice, k2tog, yo, k2. (18)
Row 2: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 3: k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (19)
Row 4: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 5: k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (20)
Row 6: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 7: k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (21)
Row 8: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 9: k2, yo, k2tog, k8, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (20)
Row 10: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 11: k11, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (19)
Row 12: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 13: k2, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (18)
Row 14: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.
Row 15: k7, kfb, B#, k9, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (17)
Row 16: yo, k2tog, knit to marker.

Beginning the Shawl:
Cast on 21 stitches and knit 5 rows.

Foundation Pattern:
The foundation pattern combines the starting body pattern and the lace edging pattern written together row by row. Place a marker (#) between the body and the edging. Work Foundation Pattern one time, ending with Row 16. The numbers in parentheses are the number of edging stitches only as counted from the marker to the end of the row.

Row 1 (RSR): k3, kfb, P#, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k3tog, (k1, yo) twice, k2tog, yo, k2. (18)
Row 2: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k4.
Row 3: k4, kfb, #, k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (19)
Row 4: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k1, p1, k3.
Row 5: k5, kfb, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (20)
Row 6: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 7: k6, kfb, #, k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (21)
Row 8: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 9: k7, kfb, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k8, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (20)
Row 10: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 11: k8, kfb, #, k11, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (19)
Row 12: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 13: k9, kfb, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (18)
Row 14: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 15: k10, kfb, #, k9, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (17)
Row 16: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.

Total stitches at the end of this section:  29

Body Increase Pattern stitch:
The Body Increase Pattern stitch is worked 4 times per repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern.

Row 1(RSR): knit until 1 st before marker, kfb.
Row 2: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k3.
Row 3: knit until 1 st before marker, kfb.
Row 4: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 stitches remain, p1, k3.

Work a total of 10 repeats of the Garter Stitch Lace pattern for this section. Your total stitch count will increase 8 stitches for each repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern. (Total stitches after each repeat:  37, 45, 53, 61, 69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109.)

Body Center Pattern:
The Body Center Pattern is worked 4 times per repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern.

Row 1: knit until 1 st before marker, kfb.
Row 2: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k3.
Row 3: knit until 1 st before marker, ssk.
Row 4: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.

Work 1 repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern for this section. Total stitch count at the end of this section: 109

Body Decrease Pattern:
The Body Decrease Pattern stitch is worked 4 times per repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern.

Row 1:(RSR) knit until 2 sts before marker, ssk.
Row 2: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 3: knit until 2 sts before marker, ssk.
Row 4: *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.

Work a total of 10 repeats of the Garter Stitch Lace pattern for this section. Your total stitch count will decrease 8 stitches for each repeat of the Garter Stitch Lace Pattern. (Total stitches after each repeat:  101, 93, 85, 77, 69, 61, 53, 45, 37, 29.)

Ending Pattern:
The ending pattern combines the body pattern and the lace edging pattern together written row by row. Work 1 repeat.

Row 1: k10, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k4, yo, k3tog, (k1, yo) twice, k2tog, yo, k2.(B18)
Row 2: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 3: k9, ssk, #, k7, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (B19)
Row 4: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 5: k8, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (B20)
Row 6: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, k3.
Row 7: k7, ssk, #, k5, yo, k3tog, k1, yo, k7, yo, k2tog, yo, k2. (B21)
Row 8: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k1, repeat from * until 4 sts remain, p1, k3.
Row 9: k6, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k8, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B20)
Row 10: yo, k2tog, knit to #, (p1, k1) x2, k3.
Row 11: k5, ssk, #, k11, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B19)
Row 12: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k1, p1, k3.
Row 13: k4, ssk, #, k2, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B18)
Row 14: yo, k2tog, knit to #, p1, k4.
Row 15: k3, ssk, #, k9, yo, k3tog, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, k1. (B17)
Row 16: yo, k2tog, knit to #, *p1, k3. (21 stitches total)

Knit 5 rows and bind off. Weave in ends. Enjoy.

Sectioned Toboggan With Hemmed Ribbed Brim for Men

Sectioned Toboggan With Hemmed Brim for Men

This makes a large adult hat 24 inches in diameter.

Gauge: 4 stitches per inch.

Materials:
1 skein knitting worsted, color of choice
1 size US 6 (4.0 mm) circular 16-inch knitting needles.
1 set of size US 6 (4.0 mm) double pointed needles.
1 row marker
6 stitch markers that are distinctive in size or color from row marker.
Length of scrap yarn for provisional cast on.

Cast on 96 stitches using provisional cast on.
Row 1-3: Knit
Work k1, p1 ribbing until work measures 3 inches.
Knit 3 rows

Pattern stitch:
Row 1: *P3, k9, place marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *P3, k9, repeat from * to end of row
Repeat row 2 until hat measures 6-1/4 inches. Repeat row 2 once more, removing your markers as you work the row. Hem the brim.

“Hemming” the Brim:
Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold with the ribbing inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle and purl it and the first stitch on the working row together (p2tog). Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and purl it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around, working in pattern, until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the “hemmed” portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 96 stitches.

Begin working pattern stitch again starting with row 1. Repeat row 2 until work measures 8-1/3 inches. Work decreases.

Decreases
Row 1: *P3, k4, k2tog, k3 repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *P3, k3, k2tog, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *P3, k2, k2tog, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *P3, k2, k2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *P3, k1, k2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *P1, p2tog, k4, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *P2, k1, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *p2tog, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of row
Cut thread, pass thread through stitches on needle, pull tight and secure.

Knitted Baffies (Slippers)

Knitted Baffies (Slippers)

This is a modification of “Non-felted Slippers” pattern by Yuko Nakamura to fit a foot 9-10 inches long (Women’s size 8-1/2 to 10).

Materials:
2 skeins Loops & Threads Woollike Chunky yarn (super bulky:6, 5-6 wpi) (You can make the sole and instep of different colors, or make both the same color.)
US size 9 (5.5 mm) 24-inch circular knitting needle
2 markers.

Sole:
Cast on 60 sts using the long-tail method. (If using two colors, cast on with sole color.)
Row 1: K30, PM, K30.
Row 2: *K1, M1, K28, M1, K1 * twice. (64sts)
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: *K1, M1, K30 M1, K1 * twice. (68sts)
Row 5: Knit .
Row 6: *K1, M1, K32, M1, K1 * twice. (72sts)
Row 7: Knit .
Row 8: *K1, M1, K34, M1, K1 * twice. (76sts)
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: *K1, M1, K36, M1, K1 * twice. (80sts)
Row 11: Knit.
Row 12: (Remove marker as you come to it.) * K1, M1, K38, M1, K1 * , M1, repeat * (84sts)
(If making the sole and instep from different colors, cut yarn.)

Instep:
(If using two colors, use instep color.)
Row 1: K.
Row 2: P37, PM, P10, PM, P37.
Row 3: K30, ssk twice, K3tog, K10, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog twice, K30. (76sts)
Row 4: P.
Row 5: K26, ssk twice, K3tog, K10, sl1, k2tog, psso, k2tog twice, K26. (68sts)
Row 6: P.
Row 7: K36, ssk.
Row 8 (WS): sl1, P10, p2tog.
Row 9: sl1, K10, ssk.
Row 10: (WS) sl1, P10, p2tog. (64sts)
Rows 11-26: Repeat rows 9 and 10 thirteen more times. (38sts)
Row 27: sl1, K10, ssk, (DO NOT TURN!) K13. (37sts)
Row 28: (Remove markers as you come to it.) P23, p2tog, P12. (36sts)
(If using two colors, cut yarn.)

Cuff:
(If using two colors, use sole color.)
Row 1-6: Knit.
Bind off knitwise. Seam sole and back seam together using the flat seam technique. Enjoy.

 

Pink Power Hat

Pink Power Hat

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Worsted weight (Medium:4) yarn color: Pretty ‘n Pink
Size US8 (5.0) 16-inch circular knitting needle.
Size US 0 (zero) (3.25 mm) crochet hook
81 beads with center hole large enough to get tip of crochet hook through, style/color of choice.
1 row marker.
(8 stitch markers of a different color than your row marker, if desired)

Abbreviations:
dyo = drop the yarn over from the previous row.
tbos, sl = thread bead on stitch, slip stitch. Insert the crochet hook through the center of the bead, hook the next knit stitch and pull it through the bead, then slip that stitch onto the right needle. Continue on with the pattern. Dropping the yo provides enough slack to allow the bead to be threaded over the following knit stitch and for that stitch to be knitted on the next row without the work puckering.

Note: This has a 9-stitch pattern repeat. You may wish to place a marker at 9-stitch intervals to help you keep track.

Body:
Cast on 80 stitches, join to knit in round.

Rows 1-9: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10:  kfb, p6, k1, *k2, p6, k1, repeat from * to end of row (81 stitches)
Row 11: *k3, p6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 12: *p1, k2, yo, k1, p5, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 13: *p2, k1, dyo, tbos, sl, k1, p4, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 14: *p3, k3, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 15: *p4, k2, yo, k1, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 16: *p5, k1, dyo, tbos, sl, k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 17: *p6, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 18: *yo, k1, p6, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 19: *dyo, tbos, sl, k1, p6, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 11-19 twice more.

Decreases:
Row 1: *k3, p2, p2tog, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *p1, k3, p1, p2tog, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *p2, k3, p2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *p3, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *k1, p2tog, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *p2tog, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *k2tog, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *k2tog, repeat until 1 stitch remains, k1.
Cut yarn, and thread the tail end through the stitches, secure. Weave in ends. Enjoy.

Variation: Hat without beads
Substitute these 9 rows for the corresponding rows in the hat body above.
Row 11: *k3, p6, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 12: *p1, k3, p5, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 13: *p2, k3, p4, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 14: *p3, k3, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 15: *p4, k3, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 16: *p5, k3, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 17: *p6, k3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 18: *k1, p6, k2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 19: *k2, p6, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Work decreases as noted above.

A Little Twisted Hat

2017_10_17-04A Little Twisted Hat

Materials:
1 skein of knitting worsted
1 size US 10 (6.0 mm) 16-inch circular needles
1 set of US 10 (6.0 mm) double pointed needles.
12 stitch markers, with one distinctly different in size, color or type for a row marker.
1 cable needle.

Cast-On 80 stitches.
Join to knit in round.
Rows 1-9: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10: Kfb, k1, kfb, *k2, kfb, repeat from * to end of row. (108 stitches)
Row 11-16: *k6, p3, repeat from * to end of row
Row 17: *C6F, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 11-17 two more times.
Row 18-20: *k6, p3, repeat from * to end of row.

2017_10_17-05Decreases:
Row 1: *k2, ssk, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *k2, ssk, k1, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3: *k1, ssk, k1, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *k1, ssk, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *ssk, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *ssk, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *ssk, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row

Cut thread with enough length to thread through remaining 6 stitches on needle. Secure and weave in ends. Enjoy.

Fabled Cable Hat

Fabled Cable Hat

Materials:
1 skein Lion Brand Landscapes Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100g, 147 yd/134 m, color “Desert Spring”
US size 8 (5.0 mm) 16-inch (40.5 cm) circular needle
US size 8 (5.0 mm) double pointed needle set
Cable needle
Row marker and 8 stitch markers of a different style or color from the row marker.

Cast on: 90 stitches
Hat Band:
Rows 1-9: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row

Hat Body:
Row 1: *k3, kfb, k2, kfb, p3, place stitch marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2-3: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 5: *C6F, k3, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 6: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 7: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 8: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 9: *k3, C6B, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 11: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 4-11 three times.
Row 12: *k9, p3, repeat from * to end of row.
Leaving stitch markers in place, begin decreases.

Decreases:
Row 1: *ssk, k7, p3, repeat from * to end of row (99 stitches)
Row 2: *ssk, k6, p3, repeat from * to end of row (90 stitches
Row 3: *ssk, k5, p3, repeat from * to end of row (81 stitches)
Row 4: *ssk, k4, p3, repeat from * to end of row (72 stitches)
Row 5: *ssk, k3, p3, repeat from * to end of row (63 stitches)
Row 6: *ssk, k2, p3, repeat from * to end of row (54 stitches)
Row 7: *ssk, k1, p3, repeat from * to end of row (45 stitches)
Row 8: *ssk, p3, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches)
Row 9: *ssk, p2, repeat from * to end of row (27 stitches)
Row 10: *ssk, p1, repeat from * to end of row (18 stitches)
Row 11: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row (9 stitches)
Row 12: *ssk, repeat from * until 1 stitch left, k1. (5 stitches)
Cut yarn, leaving enough of a tail end that it can be threaded through all the stitches on the needle, pulled tight and secured. Weave in ends. Enjoy.