Hemmed Toboggan with Internal Ribbing

This is a very simple, easy toboggan (except the hemming part is a bit tricky). The “hemming” of the bottom gives a double thickness over the ears and forehead for extra warmth. The internal ribbing helps keep it securely on the head. The things you need to know to make it: Provisional cast on, knitting in the round, how to do a knit stitch, a purl stitch, a k2tog stitch and an ssk,

Materials:
1 skein Red Heart Unforgettable, Medium:4, 3.5 oz/100 g, 270 yards/246 m, colorway: whichever one strikes your fancy.
Needle: Size US4 (3.5 mm) 16-inch circular needle, and a set of US4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles (DPNs). (optional: a second US4 (4.5 mm) circular needle of any length if you have one)
9 Stitch markers, with one of a distinct color or type from the others to use as a row marker.

Note on Yarn Usage: You can get three hats out of two skeins of this yarn.

Body of Hat
On the 16-inch circular needle, cast on 90 stitches using provisional cast on method.
Join, place row marker. Knitting in the round, knit 3 rows (stockinette). Starting with row 4, work k1, p1 ribbing for 3 inches. Knit until piece measures 9 inches (23 cm), stopping at the end of the row.

“Hemming” the Edge:
(See illustration above) Fold the edge with the provisional cast-on under just as though you were turning a hem and bring it up through the center of the work (fold purl side inside, knit side outside). Starting at the beginning of the provisional row, put the stitches from the provisional cast-on onto a second needle – either all of them onto a circular needle, or as many as will comfortably fit onto one double pointed needle, transferring more provisional stitches onto the DPN as necessary. Use your right-hand needle to transfer the first provisional stitch on that row from the provisional needle to the left-hand working needle and knit it and the first stitch on the working row together (k2tog). Transfer the second provisional stitch onto the left-hand needle and knit it and the second working stitch on the row together. Continue on around in this fashion until the end of the row. Make sure the beginning yarn end gets tucked down into the fold and is hidden inside the “hemmed” portion. You should come out even, with the last provisional stitch and the last working stitch being knitted together. You should end up with 90 stitches.

Continue knitting for another 3 inches (7.5 cm), then work Decreases.

Decreases:
Row 1: *knit 10, place marker, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *ssk, k6, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (72 stitches)
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: *ssk, k4, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (54 stitches)
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: *ssk, k2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (36 stitches)
Row 7: Knit.
Row 8: *ssk, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row. (18 stitches)
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: *ssk, repeat from * to end of row. (9 stitches)
Row 11: *ssk, repeat from * until 1 stitch remains, k1. (5 stitches)

Cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to thread through the stitches, and fasten. Weave in the end.